From its rise to prominence following the absinthe ban to becoming the quintessential drink for social gatherings across France, Pastis has carved out a place in the nation’s heart and glass.
Ever since the French government outlawed absinthe in 1915 due to rumors about its harmful effects on mental health, a new drink has risen to dominate the country’s aperitif scene. This simple yet captivating drink has become synonymous with the French apéro hour, where time slows down, and everyone has a drink in hand.
In a nation so proud of its regional specialties, the selection of drinks varies widely. From cassis-infused kir in Burgundy to beer on the Belgian border and the famed pastis in Marseille, each region has its own beloved aperitif. Yet, despite its deep roots in the southern parts of France, pastis has become the nation’s favorite drink, appearing from the sunny south all the way up to Picardie in the north. “It’s not like some other regional aperitifs,” says Forest Collins, author of Drink Like a Local: Paris. “Pineau de Charentes is found mostly in Cognac, and Pommeau is common in Normandy, but pastis? You’ll find it just about anywhere in France.”
Pastis didn’t arrive at its omnipresent status by chance. Its success was largely due to the ban of absinthe and the savvy marketing of Marseillais entrepreneur Paul Ricard. Absinthe had already begun its quiet dominance in France during the 19th century, as the phylloxera epidemic decimated vineyards, leading many to turn to the herbal liqueur as a substitute for wine. Absinthe’s complex flavor and the ritual of diluting it with sugar and water made it a beloved tradition across the country. “It was the start of something big,” says Marie-Claude Delahaye, author of L’Absinthe: Histoire de la Fée Verte. “But if absinthe had continued, pastis may never have appeared.”
In 1915, absinthe was banned across France due to claims it led to madness and insanity, leaving a void in the national drinking culture. As absinthe drinkers scrambled for a new aniseed-flavored drink, pastis emerged to fill that gap. However, unlike absinthe, which boasted a complex distillation process, pastis was simpler and less potent, with an ABV of only 40-45%. While both drinks shared the aniseed flavor, pastis became a more accessible, less controversial option. “Pastis was seen as more approachable,” Collins explains. “It allowed the aniseed drinking culture to continue without the negative associations.”
The most famous pastis brand today is Ricard, but the journey to its success wasn’t an easy one. Ricard wasn’t the first to produce pastis—Pernod, another major brand, began selling its version in 1918. However, Ricard’s marketing genius helped him become a household name. He capitalized on the French love for local products by linking his recipe to the Provençal terroir. “He’d say, ‘Make a friend a day,’” says Gabrielle Arevikian-Xerri, brand director of Pernod-Ricard. Ricard also pioneered branded merchandise, creating iconic items like glasses, ashtrays, and even bucket hats that became collectibles. Today, Ricard’s promotional items are often sought after at French flea markets, where collectors like Jacky Roussial boast impressive collections of over 3,500 Ricard-branded objects.
The rituals surrounding pastis drinking are another reason for its continued success. Traditionally, pastis is served in a branded pitcher and diluted with cold water until it turns cloudy-yellow. Some drinkers add syrup for a sweeter flavor, creating popular variations like the perroquet (pastis with mint syrup) or the tomate (pastis with grenadine). While modern mixologists have experimented with incorporating pastis into cocktails, most French people still enjoy it the traditional way—with a glass of water and ice cubes. “Ninety-five percent of French people will tell you pastis is drunk with a glass of water and ice,” says Margot Lecarpentier, a Paris-based mixologist.
This simplicity is part of what makes pastis so enduring. “Anyone can have a pitcher at home, but not everyone is going to get an absinthe fountain and spoons,” says Collins. It’s a drink that’s accessible, unpretentious, and perfect for socializing—qualities that have made it an aperitif of choice for generations.
While Ricard remains the most popular brand, other companies such as Henri Bardouin and Distillerie de la Plaine have also emerged, and Pernod itself, after merging with Ricard in 1975, continues to thrive. In fact, Ricard was the top-selling product in French hypermarkets in 2022, surpassing even iconic products like mineral water, Coca-Cola, and Nutella. Ricard continues to dominate the pastis market, and even outsold Champagne in the run-up to Christmas 2024.
For many, pastis isn’t just about the drink itself—it’s about the lifestyle it represents. “Pastis is a question of taste, and often tradition,” says cocktail bar owner Aurélie Panhelleux. “In France, it’s the only spirit people order by brand.” For some, like Roussial, it’s not even pastis—it’s Ricard. “I drink Ricard,” he says simply.
Ultimately, pastis remains a symbol of sunshine, relaxation, and friendship—values that are at the heart of French apéro culture. Collins sums it up: “For most people, it’s just a way of life. It’s like table wine.”
In a country where drinking habits can vary from region to region, pastis stands as the quintessential aperitif—beloved by young and old, rich and poor, and consumed throughout the year.
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